For years I’ve grown rattlesnake pole beans in my vegetable garden. Not only are the plants high-yielding, but the beans themselves are beautiful with eye-catching patterned pods and delicious raw or cooked. In this article you’ll learn when and how to plant rattlesnake pole beans, get ideas for supporting the vigorous vines, and advice on when to pick the tender pods. 

What are rattlesnake pole beans

Rattlesnake is an heirloom pole bean (Phaseolus vulgaris) variety that is easy to grow in garden beds and containers. Unlike bush beans which have compact growth, pole beans are vining plants and grow 8 to 10 feet tall. They easily climb supports like teepees, trellises, and fencing.

The unusual name of this variety comes from the appearance of the bean pods which are dark green with deep purple stripes and streaks and said to resemble a rattlesnake’s skin. When cooked, however, the purple coloring fades. For snap beans, I harvest the pods when they’re between 5 and 8 inches in length. If you prefer dried beans you can let the pods mature on the vines and harvest when they’ve turned brown and are fully dry. Even the beige bean seeds are pretty with dark colored streaks and spots.

When to plant

Pole beans are a warm season vegetable and can’t be planted in the garden until the danger of frost has passed in spring. The soil temperature should be at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degrees Celsius). The plants take around 65 days to go from planting to harvest and once the crop begins, it continues for 5 to 6 weeks. To encourage the longest harvest, I succession plant a second crop of Rattlesnake pole beans about a month after the first seeding. This planting is ready to pick just as the initial crop slows down. 

How to plant rattlesnake pole beans

When the time is right, pick a site with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight and average, well-draining soil. There’s no need to start the seeds indoors as pole beans are best direct sown. To increase yields you may wish to treat the seeds with a legume inoculant powder. These contain rhizobia bacteria that form nodules on the roots of the plants and boost the soil nitrogen fertility. 

Plant your bean seeds an inch deep and three inches apart at the base of a trellis. Or sow 4 to 6 seeds around the bottom of each post of a pole bean teepee. (More suggestions for pole bean supports below). Don’t forget to add a plant tag with the variety and date planted so you can keep track of your crop. Once the seeds are sown, water well and continue to maintain a lightly damp soil until the seeds have germinated and are growing well. 

How to support rattlesnake pole beans

As noted above, pole beans are vining plants and need a sturdy type of support. You’ve got a bunch of support options including A-frame trellises, vertical trellises, cattle panel tunnels, obelisks, teepees, chain link fencing, and bean netting supported between posts. It’s essential to set up support structures before you plant pole beans to avoid damaging the vines. Plus, as mentioned above the type of support also dictates the seed spacing.

Caring for Rattlesnake pole bean plants

One of the reasons I love growing beans like Rattlesnake – besides their high yield and delicious flavor – is that they’re such hands-off plants. That said, a little extra time paying attention to soil moisture pays off big time. I deep water my pole bean plants once or twice a week if there has been no rain. 

Watering is especially important during flower and pod production. I use a long-handled watering wand to direct the flow of water to the soil. I try not to wet the leaves as this can spread diseases like white mold. It’s also a good idea to water during very hot weather (temperatures over 90 degrees Fahrenheit or 32 degrees Celsius) as bean flowers often fail to set pods and fall off in extreme heat. Giving the plants moisture can reduce flower drop.

Pole bean problems

Pole beans are easy to grow, but there are a few pest and disease issues that can pop up. Here are a few common problems to watch for:

• Slugs are a major bean pest in my vegetable garden and I manage them by handpicking early in the season to put a dent in their population. I also use diatomaceous earth around bean seedlings to protect them from damage. Once the plants have sized up and are climbing their supports a little slug damage isn’t a serious problem. 
• Mexican bean beetles are a common insect pest of bean plants. The adults look like yellow-orange ladybugs while the larvae are yellow and spiky looking. You may also spot clusters of yellow eggs on the bottoms of bean leaves. The adults and larvae feed on the leaf tissue, leaving the leaf veins which results a ‘lacy’ appearance. Practice crop rotation and cover plants early in the season with row covers or insect netting.
• White mold (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum) is a fungal disease that appears in mid to late summer when there has been a lot of rain. It’s easily identified by the snowy mold that grows on the stems and developing beans. Reduce the occurrence of white mold by rotating your crops, following proper spacing recommendations, removing weeds, and watering the soil not the plant. 

When to harvest

You’ve got two options for harvesting Rattlesnake pole beans. The first is to pick the tender pods as snap beans when they’re 5 to 8 inches long. Harvest every day or two to encourage new flower and pod formation. To pick beans, use two hands; one to support the vine and one to remove the pod. If you try to pull or yank them from the vine you risk damaging the plant. I gather my snap bean pods in a harvest basket or bowl. If you’ve got a bumper crop of Rattlesnake pods, freeze your surplus beans for future meals. 

The other option is to harvest for a crop of dried beans. This is done from late summer to early autumn when the pods have turned tan to brown and are dry – the beans should rattle inside the pods when shaken. Pick before a hard frost, ideally on a sunny day so you can lay the pods in the sun to dry off any moisture. Pick the individual pods or cut the plants at soil level and hang them up in a well-ventilated spot to dry further. Shell and store the beans in airtight containers or jars. These can be used in soups, stews, or other favorite meals.

For more information on growing beans, check out these detailed articles:

• Growing green beans: A seed to harvest guide
• Learn how to plant and grow pinto beans
• Growing fava beans in a vegetable garden